Married to a Bedouin

April 2008

Every once and a while you meet someone really interesting, recently this happened to me on a trip to the southern part of Jordan.

On the flight from London to Cairo aboard a British Airways plane, I was reading the airlines magazine. There was an interesting article about author Marguerite van Geldermalsen, a nurse from New Zealand, who in 1976 made a trip to Jordan with a girlfriend. Marguerite had spent some time in Britian the previous winter and did not enjoy the damp and the gray, so thinking that the Middle East would be warmer she joined her girlfriend for what would be a life changing experience. How would she know that this decision to get out of the cold weather would begin a love affair with a charismatic souvenir-seller in the ancient city of Petra.

As facinating as the article was, I had no idea that within 2 weeks of reading it, I would meet this amazing woman only a few hundred yards from the cave where she and Mohammad Abdalla Orthman raised their 3 children. In retrospect I really wish I had read Married to a Bedouin before I traveled to Jordan, as I would have had a better understanding of the site and the people.


To enter Petra you have to travel the 2 km down the narrow passageways of the sandstone cliffs called the Siq, then you see, through a sliver of light, the Treasury, probably the most famous of the Petra sights. Through this opening and on the steps of the Treasury is where Mohammad met Marguerite, it’s also the place where our guide told us that he knew Margurite, and that she just might be in Petra on the day of our visit. Nedal would make a phone call to see if she was available. Ok I thought this could be a interesting addition to our visit. A more modern view of this area of Jordan first settled by the Nabataeans in the 6th century BC.


Marguerite was very gracious when we met her. She autographed each book and answered our questions. Someone mentioned to her about the magazine article we had read in British Airways magazine. She said that there had been some travel writers who had visited with her a few months prior, and that she never really got to see many of the articles written about her. Upon hearing her comment I made a mental note to take the complimentary copy of the magazine on our flight home, with the intent of contacting Marguerite and sending her the article.

The book was such a fascinating read. Not just the personal story of Margurite and her family, but the way of life of the Bedouin people, the customs and traditions relative to marriages and weddings, social activities, her work in the clinic, friendships, and family relationships. I had the book finished before I got to London. When I got home I e-mailed Marguerite to ask permission to post her photo on this blog, and in a few days came the reply. She has a dry sense of humor and I thank her for her candid response to my e-mails.

Married to a Bedouin by Marguerite van Geldermalsen was first published in 2006. This is a love story pure and simple! What other reason would a perfectly sane, educated, well traveled woman live and raise 3 children in a 2000 year old cave, with no running water or electricity.

Today Marguerite lives in Petra, and would welcome travelers to visit her. She will take you on a personal tour of her “cave” and other activities. For more information please contact Marguerite directly at: http://www.marriedtoabedouin.com/

Fiji - Cyclone Gene

January 29 and 30, 2008

This is the view from our hotel room at the Sheraton Resort on Denarau Island, Nadi, Fiji where we are enjoying a lovely vacation. This afternoon we found out that a Cyclone is coming our way.



This is the pool area the day before the storm.



As the sun sets the sand begins to blow down the beach, and the palm trees begin to get whipped about in the wind.



Although the sunset is quite pretty, the upcoming storm will prove to be quite ugly.



The winds were gusting up to 130 Km per hour during the night and we could hear the roar outside of our ground floor hotel room. Some hotel guests, including some of our group, were completely flooded out of their rooms. The hotel once informed of the flooding, found alternate rooms for the guests.



The damage around our room was limited to the palm trees. Note in this picture below that the lounge chairs have been lashed to the palm trees by the hotel maintenance staff, in preparation for the storm.



Closer to the main buildings larger trees gave way due to the saturated soil and wind.



Flooding extended into the lower areas of the complex.



The pool, where we had enjoyed our morning acqucise classes has now flooded, and the water is nearing the main lobby.



As the storm rages on, the clean-up has already started.

News Paper Reports of Cyclone Gene

Cyclone Gene wreaks havoc

January 30, 2008 - 11:51AM

Authorities in Fiji have begun restoring power and water after Cyclone Gene struck the country yesterday, killing as many as seven people.

Sea and air transport was also restored across Fiji today, allowing tourists trapped by the storm to begin leaving.

Cyclone Gene created havoc across Fiji and caused widespread blackouts and flooding after it hit and strengthened to a category two storm.

Fiji's emergency services were yesterday called into action after homes were destroyed by the cyclone, and water and power shortages affected much of the country.

Mesake Mataitoga from Fiji's Disaster Management Office said power and water were now working in many areas affected by the cyclone, although it was unlikely services would be fully restored for some days yet.

Gene was downgraded to a category one storm today, and was on track to hit the Vanuatu island of Tanna tomorrow at 11am.

Mr Mataitoga said the death toll in Fiji could be as high as seven, although it was still unknown whether these were all directly related to the cyclone.

Among the dead were a 13-year-old girl who drowned while swimming in rough seas and a 16-year-old girl who died from an unknown illness, after her parents could not take her to hospital because of flooded roads.

An 81-year-old-man also died after his house caught fire, thought to be a result of a kerosene lantern blowing over in the strong winds.

Two men were electrocuted to death, possibly from powerlines that fell in the strong winds.
A fisherman was found dead in a boat, while a two-month-old baby is thought to have died while being evacuated from the storm.

Tourists at popular getaways in the Yasawa and Mamanuca Islands were today able to begin leaving the islands, said Lance Millar from the Nanuya Island Resort.

An Air Fiji spokeswoman confirmed domestic flights in Fiji, with the exception of those out of Koro Airport, were again operational.

International flights out of Nadi are also believed to be running on schedule.
Alipate Waqaicelua from the Fiji Meteorological Service said this morning Gene was about 490 kilometres east of Tanna Island, in Vanuatu.

He said although the cyclone had reduced in intensity, it could again strengthen before hitting land.
Source: AAP

Tourists stranded in Fiji as Cyclone Gene strikes
Article from: AAP
January 29, 2008 11:28am
TOURISTS in the popular Mamanuca and Yasawa island groups in Fiji have been stranded by tropical cyclone Gene, which killed two men when it hit last night.

Gene, a category two storm, formed just north of Fiji's second largest island Vanua Levu yesterday.

Overnight the storm strengthened from category one and struck the main tourist centre of Nadi about midnight (11pm Melbourne time), causing flash flooding and flattening homes.

Two electricity workers were killed when hit by falling power lines near Lautoka, north of Nadi.

The storm then tracked west and buffeted tourist resorts in the Mamanuca and Yasawa island groups, as well as Vatulele Island, where there is a luxury resort.

Today those islands were warned to brace for gusts of up to 140km/h.

Abi Puisasa from the Beachcomber Island Resort, in the, said guests were unable to leave because rough seas made a trip to Fiji's largest island Viti Levu dangerous.

She said guests at the hotel were kept in a special dormitory last night to ensure they were safe as Cyclone Gene struck the region.

Fiji - A Great day on Beachcomber Island

January 27, 2008

The weather is warm and humid, the sky and the water are brilliant blues as we set out to spend the day on Beachcomber Island. Our transportation through the Mamanuca Island chain just off Nadi, Fiji is the Vasawa Flyer II, a "Big Yellow Taxi" of the aquatic kind.













We are amazed at the numerous small islands we see along the way, some just barely popping their heads out of the ocean. It is an idyllic scene and just what one would imagine a south pacific island paradise would look like.
















On some of the islands there are a few trees and buildings and on others there is just sand. On a sand bar similar to this one below we saw some people being dropped off - presumably for a day of Robinson Carusoe.



After about 45 minutes on the ferry, we transfer to small tenders then finally land at our beach. Beachcomber Island, which is a popular resort for young people, has such facilities as a restaurant, The Sand Bar with live music, aquatic rentals, a boutique and dorm type accommodation. According to some of the people staying on the island, the party really starts after the day use tourists leave.



We spent our time snorkling, and observing the fish feeding just off shore and just relaxing with a few refreshments. I had a really good time and spent most of my time in the warm water snorkeling from the beach. I saw way more tropical fish species and beautiful coral here than I did on the Great Barrier Reef. My snorkeling companion and one of the guys, who went snorkeling out of a boat a bit off shore said that they saw a small reef shark. I'm glad I didn't!

The fish below were photographed from inside a glass bottom boat.



These striped guys were near the surface hoping to get some of the goodies that the boat driver was feeding them.



Parasailing seemed to be a popular activity, but none of our group participated opting to spend the time in the water, or in the shade. A leisurely walk around Beachcomber island took a mere 15 minutes. It was similar to size as Bounty Island shown in the photograph below.



As we watch the parasailing some of our group has gathered on the beach waiting for the overdue ride back to the hotel. I guess they schedule was on "island time"



Finally our day is over and we head back out to the "Big Yellow Taxi" for our return trip through the islands to the harbour at Port Denarau. A great day, I would like to return to Fiji to spend more time snorkeling and spending time in the water!

Queenstown NZ - Paraglide

January 10, 2008

I never in a million years thought that I would jump off a mountain - even if there was a experienced pilot handling the ropes. But this is one of the most exciting adventures I have had in my 60th year - so far!

The take-off EH!

Originally my room mate and I were going to paraglide off the hill above Queenstown known as Skyline Peak, but the winds this January morning were a little too active in town. It was actually a good thing it was windy in town becasue after our morning of jet boating we were getting braver and both thought that we should have opted for Coronet Peak instead of the tamer intown site.

We were driven out to Coronet Peak the ski hill located in the Remarkable mountain range about 25 minutes out of Queenstown. I was amazed at how calm I was at the takeoff and just followed the directions of my pilot - and walked off the cliff! We caught some good thermals and actually climbed to the summit of the mountain, where we had a good view of the whole area on the backside. I was wearing shorts and my legs were freezing at these altitudes, but as cold as I was it was a fantastic sensation to fly, and climb, and turn with the power of the wind.


This is the "survivor" picture.

The ride was fun and we had a uneventful safe landing on 2, or should I say 4 feet

Shotover Jet - Queenstown New Zealand

January 10, 2008

After a short bus ride out of Queenstown we came to the picturesque canyons of the Shotover River. The first thing we did after we got our plastic cover-ups was to review the safety rules and the hand signals the driver would give to let us know when he was about to execute a spin.












The thrill seekers are suited up and ready for the adventure.














And awaaaay we go - down the Shotover River and through the canyons for 7 km. in about 7 seconds. Skimming the surface of the water and just barely missing the vertical rock cliff. Excitement!












The jet boat, equipped with a heated hand rail, is moving so fast over the cold water that my face is frozen in a permanant smile. On the first big 360, or was it 420 - I got a big dump of cold water down the back of my neck. No matter this was a thrilling ride.

A New Year in France

From the ferry, the 350 foot White Cliffs of Dover were spectacular as the sun became lower in the winter sky. The afternoon light made the chalk on the cliff face look as white as the song predicts. On Boxing Day, my travelling companion Mary and I were on our way to the continent so our real adventure could begin.

It was a rough crossing for my first experience on a big open body of water, and one I would not soon forget. The 2 American G.I’s whom we met on board the ferry and gave us some “sea rations” that they had brought to eat from the base during their getaway. They actually tasted pretty good. The rocking, rolling and constant motion put my equilibrium in a tail spin, so I really did not enjoy the trip. The voyage from Dover to Boulogne-sur-Mer seemed to take forever. This voyage is longer than the trip from Dover to Calais, as Boulogne-sur-Mer lays a little to the west of Calais. I was to find out that this first experience of sea sickness was not isolated case and I would experience it on many occasions, but at least now there is medication I can take to enjoy the ride.

We checked into a youth hostel, only to find out that besides 2 fellows from South Africa, 2 fellows from India and one well travelled guy from Japan, we were the only guests. We joined the 2 South Africans for a drink.

In the morning we found out that the Indians and Japanese guy had left for London, so we went into town with the 2 South African guys, Kubus and Peter in their car. It was a 1949 something – I don’t know the make but it was very small… and old, not much bigger than a Mercedes Benz Smart Car. (In the snowman picture you can see the car parked half way up the hill.) We went down to the coast and watched the surf rolling in from the English Channel. The wind was howling and it was cold, so although interesting to see for the prairie girls, it was far too blustery and bitter so stand and admire the power of the sea.

The four of us moved on to another youth hostel in northern France in a little town called Montreuil –sur-Mer, not too far down the coast. Montreuil was a sleepy medieval town on the coach road from Calais to Paris. Victor Hugo set "Les Misérables" in Montreuil as it has a medieval charm. Another claim to fame was the Citadelle built in 1567; military engineers had constructed a bastion along the walls, earthworks, and a new Citadelle on the weak point, where there was a gentle slope to the river. The purpose was to keep the invading Spanish at bay. Only two entrance towers remained of the old medieval castle and the youth hostel was located in the nearby soldier’s quarters. The hostel was called “La Hulotte” they had a youth club and we enjoyed a night of dancing with all of the French guys we met there. I still have the handmade post cards I got from the hostel host at Montreuil-Sur-Mer hostel depicting the old “Le Chateau Royal”


Adjacent to the youth hostel there was a tennis court. A little cool for a game of tennis, but we had other ideas for this snow covered court. The boys from South Africa had never built a snowman before, so with our suggestion they set out to build a snow man. We had suggested the traditional method of rolling the snow, but they had other ideas and the result was a bit surprising, including a bench that was used to prop up this 6 foot wonder.



We had now spent a few days hanging out with these guys and we were getting to know them, or so we thought. They suggested that we could travel to Paris together and share the gas. We were concerned about how the four of us and our luggage was going to fit in that little car for a longer ride, but alas it was not to come to pass. After a little disagreement at our small New Year’s Party/ping pong tournament the white nights disappeared in the dead of the night. We awoke on New Year’s Day 1969 to find that our ride had left without us, so now we had to suck it up and get out on the road and hitchhike like we had planned.

We went to bed early that night so we could get on with our adventure the next day, well aware of the warning that had been given to us in London, by my cousin with the Canadian embassy, of the demise that can happen to young girls travelling in Europe. We heard – we did not listen. It took us 2 rides to get to Paris and we arrived, at the Youth Hostel from hell, at about 1 PM. Gee that was easy!

The food in this hostel was crappy. I guess I though, France = good food, NOT here! We went to bed early and then “the” most horrific awakening I have ever or likely will ever have in my life. Out of loud speakers came this blaring noise, which went on and on. It sounded to me like German marching music at about 9 out of 10 on the volume control. From a dead sleep, on a bad meal this was not fun.

We did a day of sightseeing on what was to be our last day in Paris, of course first on our list was the Eiffel Tower. We met three Spanish guys as we climbed to the second level on a cool partly cloudy day. They were studying French and it was lots of fun to hang out with them attempting to comminicate to the guys in their limited English. As we were playing tourists in Paris, we met a guy from Calgary and a brother of someone Mary knew. He took us to the Sir Winston Churchill Bar for a drink. The Sir Winston is situated on Rue de Presbourg next to the Arc of Triumph. It is the oldest pub in Paris and was not as trendy in 1969 as it is today.

The traffic in Paris was astounding, at least for me. Standing on the street by the traffic circle at the Arc of Triumph and feeling the vibration of the Paris Metro beneath my feet, the dizzying movement of the vehicles, the horns honking as the drivers jockeyed for position in this, at one of the world’s most famous traffic circles was fantastic, and made such an impression on me that I can recall it very vividly even today.

This was a short visit to Paris, but a memorable one.