Wednesday, December 26, 2007

Christmas in Canterbury

My traveling companion Mary and I left Calgary in December 1968 for our European adventure. After a short stop in Halifax to visit her family, we arrived in England. Dave and his brother Roger Powell met us in London on a cool foggy Tuesday morning in December 1968. Dave had been a Pen Pal of Mary’s ever since high school. Having someone meet you when you arrive at a place you have never been before is a nice feeling, especially on your first big trip and this far from home.
Big Ben

Once we got settled in at the YWCA, we got a quick tour and located the underground, which we would need later in the week to go to Canterbury to spend Christmas with Dave, Roger and their parents. What a warm wonderful gesture it was for this family to invite us, almost complete strangers, to share their family, friends and home at Christmas time.

Trafalger Square

But, Christmas was 2 weeks away, and we had sights in London we wanted see and things do before that. I also wanted to meet my cousin Ernie, who worked for the Department of External Affairs for the Government of Canada, at Canada House in Trafalgar Square. Ernie was my Uncle Bart’s son and I had only met him as a young child when he was visiting my grandfather’s house. I remembered Ernie wearing his navy uniform – so handsome!

Carnaby Street
It was a cold, cold, damp ache that got into my bones that first week. I spent one day in bed at my cousins then we were back out walking mile after mile in London. There were so many museums, historical buildings, 60’s cultural icons to see, and we didn’t want to waste any time. Dave took us to a party in the student union room of his college one night, and during the days when weren’t inside, we explored the parks of London even though it was a bit chilly. At night we found warm pubs and rubbed elbows with the locals.

When we met Ernie at Canada House and he invited us to come to his house in Bromley (Hayes) to stay for the weekend. Rhoda and Ernie had a lovely home with central heating which was a nice change from the YWCA and the Earl’s Court Youth Hostel where we had been staying. Their 5 kids were quite small at the time; however they were well traveled and had lived most of their lives abroad.

We had a lovely time with my cousins, and they treated us to dinner on Saturday night along with another couple from the embassy. This was to be an embarrassing night for this small town girl, who never really ate out in a lot of fancy restaurants at this point in her life. As we were eating our steaks, I was being so careful to not look like a pig. So I tried to cut my cherry tomato in two, instead of popping the whole thing in my mouth, and much to my surprise according to the look on my face, the tomato jumped right off of my plate flew across the table at lightning speed and hit Ernie’s tie dead center, then dropped into his lap.

London Train Station
It was 3 days before Christmas and Mary and I met Dave and Roger at Victoria Station in London before catching the train to Canterbury. I loved riding the train, it was so “old movie” to me. My first impression of Canterbury was that it was quite a small city and I didn’t think there would be enough to keep us occupied for 5 days. I was actually quite anxious to get Christmas over with and get on with the adventure “on the continent”. We spent the next several days sleeping in, taking in the local sites like the Cathedral, and shopping for small Christmas gifts for our hosts.

It was interesting staying in a private home in England. Dave’s family did not have central heating, but individual heaters on only in the room which were in use in the old three story house. The halls and stairwells were cold and you had to hurry into a warmed room and quickly close the door. This was impressed upon us rather quickly.

As Christmas Eve arrived we went out to the Bat and the Ball and the Phoenix pubs, which were full of party goers. I was surprised to see so many people out on Christmas Eve, obviously a tradition we were not accustomed to. We had a really nice time in the pubs and came back late.

There was snow in London on Christmas Day, but in Canterbury it rained. Except for the weather, Christmas Day in England was very traditional, including turkey. At the dinner table we pulled Christmas crackers, wore the silly hats and read the corny jokes. Around the table at 2PM we all raised our glasses to make a toast to all of the family members who were not present. At other locations in England and Wales the Powell’s extended family was making the same toast. I thought this was a very touching tradition. Like other families around the world we spent the afternoon watching movies. “Some Like it Hot” with Tony Curtis, Jack Lemon and Marilyn Monroe was playing on TV.

I still treasure the leather Canterbury bookmark with the city crest and monogrammed handkerchief which I received from our host family that first Christmas away from home. I thought of my own family in my home town of Magrath, Alberta and wondered if they could imagine the sights I was seeing and the hospitality I was receiving this Christmas day so far away.

On Boxing Day, after dropping Dave and Roger off at their riding academy just outside Canterbury, our host Mr. Powell drove us to Dover to catch the ferry to France.
White Cliffs of Dover





Sunday, December 9, 2007

Maetaman Rafting and Elephant Camp

On a wet Monday morning in Oct 2001, the Going Solo Travel group from Calgary was exploring the northern regions of Thailand. We start our day in Chiang Mai, a wonderfully picturesque city with walls and moats, and head into the countryside to go river rafting and ride elephants. From Chiang Mai, a city of 200,000 we headed north on highway 107, then west on route 1096.

Driving through the countryside is always interesting, and I spend as much time a possible looking out the bus windows to see how the local people live. On this particular day I noticed a creative and industrious man working in a ditch of muddy water about 5 feet wide and probably 3 or 4 feet deep. The “fisherman” had constructed a small shelter to keep him out of the sun and dry during the rain. This would also allow him to keep an eye on his traps both day and night. A net had been constructed from one bank to the other. He must have had some sort of success fishing in this dubious water before; because you couldn’t even see if there were any fish as the water was thick and a murky tan color.

When we arrived at the Maetaman Rafting and Elephant Camp we went to the display and training area. The trainers, who bond with the elephants for life, put the elephants through a series of activities which simulated the tasks of a “working male elephant”. Some of these exercises consisted of lifting, pulling, nudging and kicking soccer balls (surprisingly far).


The elephants eat a vast amount of roughage each day, which was evident by the abundant droppings all around the compound. Our contribution to the daily diet were bunches of bananas which we purchased for a few baht, the Thai currency. There are still pockets of working elephants in Thailand, as we saw some of them on the roads in the Northern provinces.


Our elephant was outfitted with a Sudan type chair. To get in the seat, the elephant it was led up beside a platform the height of her back. We climbed the stairs and waited our turn. I was paired up with John one of my fellow travelers. Our trip would take us into the jungle on a loop up the side of the hill near the camp. The path was very muddy and slippery. I was a bit concerned about the animals slipping or getting stuck in the mud, but much to my surprise these lady elephants were very graceful, sure footed and never missed a step. Each elephant stepped into the footprint of the elephant before her, swaying back and forth as they lumbered up and down the paths between the tall trees. There was so much traffic over this route that the footprints were well worn, full of water and appeared to be about a foot or more deep.


When the elephant s became pensive about their next step they came to a stop and used their trunks to smell/feel out the placement of the next foot. I especially noticed this when it was really muddy and boggy or steep.










After our hour of swaying through the trees, the elephants were fed and treated to a swim in the river. Normally the river meanders through the quiet valley at a peaceful speed, but today after the rain the river is high, muddy and is running too fast for the small bamboo rafts. The starting point did not look too bad but further downstream there were some switchbacks where the river narrowed and sped up. So, after a fair bit of discussion and delays, the local river guides determined that it was not safe to proceed with rafting. Although we were very disappointed, I was glad that we erred on the side of safety, for everyone’s sake.